Thread Talk From My Sewing Machine #69

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Hello Friends, I hope you are doing well.  Things have been a little chaotic over here… probably an understatement, haha!  But we are doing well.   Despite the beautiful cherry blossoms we saw last week, we are waiting for the slightly warmer weather to keep getting warmer. :)

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Last week, I stitched out a Mandala design using my Subtle Strings threads.  This Mandala design was stitched out as part of QuiltShopGal’s Bee Creative Charity Project.  Click here to read more.  QuiltShopGal also showed my pencil sketch schematic of this stitched Mandala in her post. You are free to use it as an inspiration for your quilting.

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Sometimes, a little subtlety goes a long way, yes?  To illustrate how subtle the colors of my Subtle Strings thread spools are, I contrast them against a solid black background.  The flower center is stitched with Aurifil 40wt threads in the bright and loud shades in order to give contrast to the colors and the 50wt threads I had chosen for Subtle Strings.  All 12 Subtle Strings colors are stitched in the 12 outer petals.

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It’s interesting to me to see how the colors look SO different when wound on spools vs. when they are stitched out. In this case, when the thread is stitched out (without the effect of the collective rounds of wound thread), you might even say some of the threads are subtly similar in shades — thus the name, Subtle Strings. :)  Take a look at the corresponding colors to the stitched petals, and you will quickly see the effect of “collective vs loner”.  For example, that yellow thread doesn’t look so yellow after all.

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My two cents:

#1.  ALWAYS, always (!) audition the color of your threads but pulling a thread by itself and lay it against your fabrics to see if you like the thread color on your quilt, instead of laying the entire spool on the fabric for audition.  Of course that is the lazy way.  You can always actually stitch out the colors on actual fabrics if you are the very responsible kind, haha!  As for me, I tread the quickest path that gets me to the actual quilting part.

***There are logical reasons to my Subtlety (see below):

#2.  Interchangeable shades — that means I have used the similar shades of colors TOGETHER in a quilt in the situation where I ran out of one color during the quilting process, and proceeded using the one with the similar shade.  The effect is almost unnoticeable (unless inspected up close), especially with those two blue shades.

#3. The top center cream shade is my favorite neutral shade (#2130) that I use to piece AND quilt most of the time.  BUT, I have also learned that the other shades (like the light pink, lavender, light blue, gray and taupe) are suitable for piecing as well – even for light fabrics.  So, if you have threads in subtle colors laying around, use them like you would a neutral thread in your sewing!

#4.  The softer colors accentuates the texture of quilting if you want the effect of your quilting not overpowering.

The following picture shows what I call “lemonade” quilting.  The thread is the light pink quilted against a yellow fabric:

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#5.  I also picked those shades for hand applique purposes because those shades blend well in securing the applique pieces onto background fabrics.  I read somewhere a long time ago to no pick loud shades for hand applique.  And I have always used subtle shades for hand applique.

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#6.  And of course all the Subtle Strings threads are in 50wt.  The reason being, for those starting out with domestic machine quilting, I always encourage them to use the finest thread they can find.  I started out using 100wt silk (you can read more about it and see more pictures here).  As I taught domestic machine quilting, I had found that the 50wt really gives the students the best results that eventually confidence in them to continue in domestic machine quilting.  [From my personal teaching experience, it has to be the Aurifil 50wt that gives the best result!  I would hand out 50 wt threads to student who are struggling in class to have them just try the thread – they are always amazed at the difference the thread makes!]  So, the 50wt is definitely a great weight to start!

#7.  When used for quilting, I find that the 50wt masks mistakes really well, and oftentimes that is what give beginners the initial confidence to keep on quilting on their domestic machines.

#8.  The 50wt is my favorite weight for piecing.  I think that the 50wt helps with achieving precision in piecing.

My Color Burst quilt comes to mind – that quilt was completed from start to finish (finish means bound and set to the magazine editor) in 5 days.  I have to say it wouldn’t have been possible for me to do had it not been the Aurifil 50wt threads that helped me so much in achieving the precision in piecing.  Keep in mind these HST finish at 1 1/2″ square.

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I think I finally ran out of my 2-cents on being subtle here. :)  I hope you will look and see what threads you might have to stitch them out, just to see how they would look on fabrics like I did with my Subtle Strings colors on a black. I will have more projects like that to show and share with you this year — and hope that you will make experimenting a point in your quilting journey this year!

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You may contact Donna at www.followthatthread.com to order your own Subtle Strings collection.  A big shout out to Quilters Newsletter for including the collection in the Staff Picks section of their latest issue (April/May 2016).  Have you see my Tartan Links quilt in that same issue?

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Alrightie — Friends, I am going to have a date with my Aurifil 50wt threads as I have to get a quilt top pieced and shipped out tomorrow.  I hope you have a most lovely weekend!  Quilty hugs to you – whether you are a quilter or not.

Creative New Quilts & Projects: Project Pictures

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Hello Friends, I hope you have had a good week!  I am excited to share with you images of the projects included in my new book Creative New Quilts & Projects from Precuts or Stash!  The projects in this book are all designed with using precuts and scraps in mind, with fun design elements added to the precuts projects.

A couple of the following projects have optional colorways, and are marked with *.

 

Birds of a Feather Place Mats 

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*Birds of a Feather Runner

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Care for a Cuppa? Wallhanging

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Childhood Memories Crib Quilt – boy and girl versions

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*Counting My Blessings Banner Quilt

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Crossings Lap Quilt

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Flight of Colors Pillows, made with leftovers from Crossings Quilt

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Gwendolyn’s Dream Garden Bed Quilt

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Stars Over Columbia Lap Quilt

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Winter Blues Lap Quilt

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Spring Basket

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Details for each project are forthcoming.  The projects are on their way back to me, and I have scheduled a massive photo shoot of my projects (book and magazine) after my trip next week.  I just counted – I have close to 20 quilts I need to photograph, and share with you!!!

Meanwhile, you may purchase a copy of the book from me (signed copies), Landauer, or Amazon.

QuiltShopGal did a review on the book, and is currently hosting a giveway for a copy of the book here.

Now, I am curious which of these projects would be your favorite.  Would you please tell me?

p.s.  A big thank you to the Landauer Team for making my book happen, and looking so very good!  You know what I am talking about if you have had a chance to thumb through the book.

Thread Talk from my Sewing Machine #66

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Glamming up with… a string of pearls!  I love quilting string of pearls whenever I need to glam up a look.  Here is my latest completed project…

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Here are pictures of glamming up with strings of pearls from my past projects.

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Give it a try — you might really like the effect.  I have written about quilting circles in the past here.

So, curious mind wants to know if you are a pearl necklace person.  I am generally not the necklace type, but I am definitely the earrings type.  So I am definitely into pearl earrings!

Thank you for stopping by.  I hope you all have a Happy Monday, and a Happy Week!

Thread Talk from my Sewing Machine #65

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Hello Friends, I am happy to share with you a “faux” long-arm free motion quilting motif that I have quilted on my latest completed quilt.  I am going to show you how “quilting off the seat of one’s pants” works out in real life using a piece of paper.  The goal is to fill the paper with the motif — exactly like how we would quilt an allover quilting motif on a quilt.  So, first let’s look at the progression of filling up a space with quilting motifs, starting from #1.  The different colors denote different repeats of the motif.

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So, here you see I “quilted” #1-9 with not much of any abnormality.  I do want you to note how I always have my “starting” swirl of each repeat going a different direction — as much as I can — that gives the overall effect a sense of movement!  I also want you to notice that the leaves aren’t in any particular shape as long as they taper inward, as well as the filler swirls I use to fill up some open space that is too small to fit another repeat of the motif.

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I sort of quilted myself in a corner at #9, and have no convenient to get out to fill the remaining open area.  No big deal, cut the thread, and find a convenient spot to start again.  Thus #10 and so on, until an entire area is filled up.

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Here is what is on paper transferred to a real quilt looks like on the back of my latest completed quilt…

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Curious what the quilt looks like on the front?  I am afraid you have to wait.  All I can tell you is that my husband loves the quilt.  He has great taste, because he…. married me!  HAHA.  Please note I am totally cracking a lame joke at that one!  Alrightie, I shall catch up with you later!

p.s.  You may click here for my other Thread Talk posts.

Thread Talk from My Sewing Machine #64

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Happy Monday, Friends!  I hope you all had a wonderful weekend.  I had to pack in quite a bit of work to make something happen, but that’s okay.   I am just now catching up with your comments/emails!

Often times what I plan in my mind for quilting scheme on my quilts don’t come to pass.  On this most recently finished quilt, I had planned for formal feather plumes — but one just can’t quite force formal on adorable polka dots.

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In the end, I turned to my informal pseudo feathers and “plume-ified” them.  Basically, I quilted my plumes as I would in my regular feather plumes, except forming my feather lobes differently.  It took a little bit to get used to. Just make sure you follow the path of quilting the regular feather plumes, and go from there, and I think you will be fine.  The effect is lighter, air-ier, and sweeter!

Click here to read about my Thread Talk post on feather plumes.

Click here to read about forming psedo-feathers.

Click here to read all of my archived Thread Talk post.

Thank you for stopping by – I have to run for now.  I have A LOT to get done before I can go to bed tonight.  I shall catch up with you later!  Love and hugs to you all.

Thread Talk from My Sewing Machine #63

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Hello Friends, I thought I would share with you a peek of another recently completed quilt that is another example of subtle contrast quilting.  I have talked about subtle contrast quilting in the past here.  I am calling my pink on yellow quilting the lemonade color scheme.

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I am not really a pink person, and oftentimes my pink threads just sit in the box.  So it is nice to be able to use my pink thread to quilt this sweet quilt.  And come to think of it, I almost always quilt with a subtle contrast color scheme now that I have discovered how slightly different color threads add to the quilting.

I hope this encourages you to go check out all your colored threads and see if you can use them in doing some subtle contrasting quilting!

Thanks for stopping by.  Hugs to you all.

Thread Talk from My Sewing Machine #62

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Hello Friends!  As promised, here is my tutorial for my “Riley Blake”-ish flower motif from yesterday’s post.  In order to quilt this motif, you will need a marking pen and something that will allow you to draw a circle, besides your usual free-motion quilting notions.

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Here goes the tutorial.  First I used my marking pen to draw a circle that serves as a boundary for my flower.  Then, I just eyeballed and drew a much smaller circle in the center of the large circle.

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Then, I started by quilting the small circle, following (sort of) the drawn outline, before finishing off with a small swirl within the small circle.  And after that I started my first swirl in the big circle.

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Easy peasy – I just kept swirling within that drawn boundary, until I came to the very last swirl…. at this point, I didn’t complete my swirl as you can see from the picture.

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This is because at this point, my swirls look more like an octopus’ tentacles rather than a flower.  So, to transform the tentacles into a flower, I needed to “close off” those swirls by doing some echo quilting.

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I like that this motif is very forgiving.  The swirls do not all have to be identical to look good, and the echoes do not have to be exactly spaced.  And I can also challenge myself further in the precision department by quilting the swirls and echoes perfectly to see how far I can push myself.  I hope you will give this motif a try, and let me know how you like it.  Since this is a new motif for me, I have ideas swimming in my head on how to further develop the applications of the motif… but only after I have met some of my immediate deadlines that includes playing with some REAL Riley Blake fabrics!

Thank you for stopping by, and Happy Quilting!

p.s.  For my new friends and followers, click on the feather quilting image at the top of this post for more free-motion quilting tips!

Thread Talk from My Sewing Machine #61

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Hello Friends, it’s so good to have you back.  I am passionate about wholecloth quilting when it comes to machine quilting.

However, I am keenly aware not all quilters want to do that kind of quilting — which is PERFECTLY okay!!  I am not in any way getting on to you for not doing wholecloth quilting that oftentimes requires very dense background quilting.  The background quilting you see in the following quilt images is quilted less than 1/8″ apart!

Plus to be honest, that kind of dense background quilting probably is not conducive to be quilted on quilt tops made with printed fabrics.  So, for a while now, I have been thinking about the matter of background fillers to go with feather quilting on “printed” quilt tops that are practical. One of these fillers is my Sand Dunes filler!

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1.  So, first, we have a feather plume “quilted” here.  Click here to read about how I quilt my feathers.

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2.  After the feather is quilted, I picked a spot on the feather to just quilt something curvy, but somewhat graceful looking toward the outer edge of the quilt top.

So you will notice I quilted my first Sand Dune pass (#1) beyond the edge of the quilt top INTO to the batting and quilt backing portion — assuming you baste your quilt sandwich with excess batting and quilt fabric around the quilt top, like I do.

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3.  That’s because… it saved me having to cut my thread and restart on the pass back to the feather plume.  Notice my pass back to the feather plume is only somewhat echoing the first pass. My Sand Dunes are meant to be “liberated” echoes in the sense that they are not exactly echoed.  Another thing is that the Sand Dune passes are quilted far apart, unlike the 1/8″ or less distance in between echoes in my wholecloth quilting.

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Once the back pass (#2) touches the feather plume, I would then follow the quilt feather plume outline for just a little bit, and then, I would quilt toward the outer edge of the quilt top with another Sand Dune pass (#3) and so forth to complete the background quilting around the feather plume(s) on my quilt.

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This quilt back picture might show you exactly I meant.

I like the Sand Dunes for a printed quilted tops because this filler looks open and doesn’t have a suffocating feel on the printed quilt tops.  It is not demanding because it doesn’t require me to echo exactly, and veering off a bit on subsequent echoes actually adds to the overall textured look.

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I would love for you to try out Sand Dunes with your feathers — and let me know what you think.

Meanwhile, if you haven’t checked out my other posts on machine quilting, feel free to do so by clicking here.

I will be sharing with you some exciting machine quilting news in a couple of months – can’t wait!!! But for now, if you haven’t checked out my online Learn to Machine Quilt class (that covers practical motifs for beginning machine quilting) here, I hope you will do so as well.  The class is also available on DVD here.

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Thank you for stopping by, Dear Friends!  Blessings to you all!

Thread Talk from My Sewing Machine #60

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Hello Friends!  I thought I would spend a few moments responding to the free-motion quilting concerns you shared on my giveaway of my Learn to Machine Quilt post.  You still have till 12am EST 8/7/2014 to enter the giveaway.

1.  Runaway stitches – help!

Wendy’s 2 cents:  I remember the runaway stitches well, especially during my learning curve stage.  It still happens to me sometimes when my family startles me when I am quilting, or when Miss Baby decides to snuggle right next to me when I am trying to quilt a large quilt.  When runaway stitches happen, I would either leave them be or rip them out depending how bad they are (or how much time I have).

To minimize the running away of stitches, I would mentally brace myself when my stitching comes near a stopping point.  Then, I would slow down my stitching (very important!), and make sure I have my hands well on the quilt sandwich so that my quilt sandwich doesn’t veer in any direction — before taking a few tiny bites to tie off a particular stitching path if I am at a spot where I have to cut off my threads.

2.  Struggling with bobbin tension -help!

Wendy’s 2 cents:  I am thinking bobbin tension was raised as a concern because oftentimes quilters try to match their bobbin threads with the backing fabric they use, which oftentimes are of different colors they use for their top threads.   They then find out no matter how they tweak the settings (top and bobbin), sometimes, the bobbin threads would still show up on the quilt top.  VERY annoying, I know!

Instead of fighting, I take the easy way out.  I always use the same threads for my top and bobbin threads.  That way, I don’t have to waste my time trying to fine tune fine tuning my settings.  More often than not, my bobbin thread colors do not match my quilt backing fabric.  But the results can be visually striking on the back, as shown below.

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3.  Give your quilting some time to simmer!

French 75 Quilts left the following comment on the Learn to Machine Quilt Class giveaway post.

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Wendy’s 2 cents: Boy, truer words have never been said when it comes to evaluating your own quilting – especially for those who are braving the learning curve stage.  It is true!!!!  I have taught students who start out being really critical of their own quilting, noticing the uneven stitches here and there.  BUT after they have quilted a larger area, walked away, and come back to look at their quilting again – inadvertently, the comments are always, “It looks better than I thought”, or “It is actually not that bad.”  I don’t think that is falsely consoling oneself.  I think when we go back to look at our quilting after it “simmers”, we look at the big picture and are taken by the overall texture reflected by the light from those quilting stitches.

You can be sure I have BAD stitches in the quilting shown below…!  But you tend to see the overall big picture, don’t you?

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4.  Uneven stitching speed – help!

Wendy’s 2 cents:  My stitching speed is actually not constant.  The reason being sometimes when rounding a corner or stitching in tight spot, I have to really concentrate – and so I slow down!  So, to those who struggle with uneven stitching speed, I say as long as your stitches are even, it’s okay to vary your stitching speed.  I mean, we don’t drive at a constant speed at all times because there are always unforeseen things on the road, and so we adjust our driving speed accordingly. I think that’s the same concept.  When I first learned how to drive, a friend advised me not to drive faster than I could see.  I have applied that same principle to quilting.  I never quilt faster than I can see!

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5.  Struggling with quilting large scale – help!

Wendy’s 2 cents:  I actually think it is easier to quilt small on a domestic machine.  But it is possible to quilt large scale if — 1.  You have quilted the motif in small scale, and 2.  You are VERY familiar with the stitching path. Taking care  of those two variables first and foremost will really help in large scale quilting.

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Then, as you quilt, every so often, come out for air and survey the territory on your quilt yet to be quilted, and proceed from there.

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Then, finally, don’t be nervous.  Just…. keep calm, and quilt on!  Don’t you love that mug?  I would love to have one.  You can purchase it here.  Image below is borrow from the purchase link.

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To read previous Q&A posts, click the following:

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Q&A1

Q&A2

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Thank you for stopping by!  Stop back by tomorrow for the announcement of the winner of my Learn to Machine Quilt class!  Have a blessed day, Dear Friends.

Thread Talk from My Sewing Machine #59

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Hello Friends, I hope your week has gotten off a good start.  Thank you ALL for sharing about the challenges you face in domestic machine quilting in my Learn to Machine Quilt giveaway post.  I truly am appreciative of you for doing that. Due to the high volume of comments, I am not able to respond to most of your comments personally unless you have unique concerns.  I have tried to write you personally if you have expressed unique concerns.  I am going to share a few thoughts (hopefully encouraging and assuring to you) to address the concerns shared by many.

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1.  I have never tried machine quilting.  I have put off quilting my own quilts.

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Yes, trying something new can be scary and very deterring!  I know.   However, my experience in machine quilting is such that once one gets over the learning curve, it will be easier.  But one needs to be determined to get over that initial hump.  My Learn to Machine Quilt class is designed to help jump-start quilters on quilting on their domestic machines.  I always start my students with echoing.  I believe if one is able to echoing echoes that are somewhat equally apart, one has gotten a good feel of moving one’s quilt sandwich.  And many subsequent motifs and techniques are actually extension of echoing, in fancier renditions.

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2.  I struggle with jerky and large stitches.  Curves are angular rather than curvy.

Wendy’s 2 cents:  I spent quite a bit of time thinking about this while I was working to finish up a quilt over the weekend.   I mean quite a bit of time because except for church, I was home working on Iron Man II.  The quilt is done, and on its way to the editor as of this morning.  But I digress…

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think… I suspect… the reason some struggle with large, jerky stitches is because they might be moving their quilt sandwiches too much spatially speaking while stitching.  I found that one does not have to move my quilt sandwich a lot while stitching – if my foot pedal is pressed down, a teeny amount of movement WILL result in my needle taking a stitch.  SO, I would suggest moving your quilt sandwich just ever so little (and slowly) to see if your stitches improve.  Hopefully, by slowing down and moving small will help you get into a nice rhythm of enjoyable stitching and beautiful stitches!

I have small hands.  The way I move my quilt sandwich is I would use my lay my left hand on the quilt sandwich (like a webbed feet) to keep the quilt area taut, and use my right thumb and first finger to slightly pick up the other side of the quilt.  I find that I am able to move my quilt with small movements that way. But I also realize different people find different ways that work for them.  So, I am just throwing this out there as food for thought!

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As for smooth curves, I think the sample principle applies.  Don’t move your quilt sandwich and force the needle to take too big a “bite”. You might try that and see if moving your quilt sandwich in small spatial amount helps.

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3.  How to handle large quilts?

Wendy’s 2 cents:  My Learn to Machine Quilt class does NOT cover how to handle large quilts because it is meant to be a primer class to get quilters to learn the basics of machine quilting.  The class sample finishes at 24″ square.   In my experience, I can comfortably quilt quilts on my domestic machine up to about 80″ square. I have done one that is over 90″ square, and that was pushing it.  All that said, I think it is definitely do-able if you are quilting a large throw or even a twin quilt.

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To handle large quilts, my suggestion is to make sure you have a large surface that is flushed with your sewing surface.  That way, you can keep all your quilt ON the surface instead of having it drape and drag below your sewing table.  Having an L-shape sewing surface helps too.  It is important to keep the weight of the quilt ON the quilting surface and not below.  Then, you just need to fan out for yourself an area about 8″ x 8″ around your needle area so that you can quilt nicely without any puckers.

The other thing I would suggest is to use light batting (silk is great!) to reduce the overall weight of the quilt.  It makes me a difference for me when I am trying to move my quilts sandwiched with silk batting instead of the heavier cotton.  Click here for my Thread Talk post on silk batting.

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4.  I have difficulty deciding what to quilt.

Wendy’s 2 cents:  That is a very common challenge faced by quilters.  I try to decide what to quilt on my quilts based on the general geometry, the feel, and sometimes believe it or not, the clue is on the fabric prints.  Check out my other Thread Talk threads — I have written quite extensively on what to quilt on quilts.

I recently taught a class illustrating quilting can be more than stitching in the ditches and cross-hatching on 9-patch blocks.

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Thanks for stopping by.  I hope the thoughts I have shared have empowered you rather than scaring you off concerning machine quilting.  It is possible!!!  Meanwhile, you still have time to click here and enter the giveaway for a free copy of my online Learn to Machine Quilt class.

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Click here for other past Q&A posts on machine quilting using a domestic machine.

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Thread Talk from My Sewing Machine #58

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Some of you are probably like me… I love the look of contrast quilting, but sometimes, I am a little hesitant to use really contrasting colors on my quilting because contrasting quilting means easily spotted mistakes!  I have in the past done some contrast quilting, as shown in the following from Out of the Nest:

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More often than not, my preferred color scheme is tone-on-tone quilting, as in Coxcombs and Berries.

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BUT…. I have been experimenting with “subtle” contrast quilting in the last 6-9 months or so, and I am REALLY liking the look!  The resulting look is such at the quilting is emphasized without being overpowering and taking over the overall look of a quilt.

Here you see a beige on white color scheme in Rising Stars:

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And more recently in a couple of “yet to be official” quilts — variegated gray on beige, and light brown on beige.

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My favorite Aurifil thread color remains 2310 – I wouldn’t know what I would do without my 2310 spools!  But if you are wanting to try out how you like “subtle” contrasting quilting, may I suggest the following colors from Aurifil — 2843, , 2324, 5011, 2600, 4060, 2770, 2000, seen below on beige solid fabric.

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I know we are already into April in this year.  But perhaps it isn’t too late for you to try out some subtle contrast quilting?

I am eager for your feedback, and know I will love reading your comments on this post!

Thanks for stopping by.  It’s back to work I go.  Hugs to you all.

Thread Talk from My Sewing Machine #57

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Hello Friends, I hope you are well.  I am happy to share a little more about my “Roundabout Feathers”, as dear friend Joyce calls them.  Joyce gave me her permission to coin the name “Roundabout Feathers” for these fun feather wreaths with a twist!  These feathers are free-hand quilted with very minimal marking, as shown later.

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[Sorry about that little piece of lint in this following picture!]

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SO — you have this open space that is perfect for quilting something feathery!  For this particular quilt, I have A LOT of open space that I needed something feathery…. but I wanted to add visual interest to the feather wreaths, and not have all of them look identical… so I thought off-centered and concentric wreaths would do the job.

First, I looked through my piles of dishes, and found two bowls – one large, and one smaller.  You can decide what sizes work for you – just make sure one is smaller than the other.  And I then trace the circles on the open space.  The circles then form the spines of the wreaths, and are the determining factor of the placement of your wreath.

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The key is to remember the inside feathers of the inner ring MIRRORS the outside feathers of the outer ring, as shown.  You can definitely mark the orientations of the first feather on each ring before you start if the feather wreaths on your quilt are direction-specific.

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Then, you would start filling the outside of the outer ring, and inside of the inner ring with feathers!

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Then, it’s time to feather the inner feathers of the outer ring.

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For the outer feathers of the inner ring, I don’t do “full” feather lobes on some of them just to give the eye a bit of rest — instead I quilt the effect of overlapping feathers, as shown in the schematic.

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I find these roundabout feather wreaths to be very versatile.  I can place them wherever I want on an open space, and I can decide how large or small my rings would be, and thus further customizing their appearances.  I hope you can see what I mean with the pictures of the wreaths quilted in real life that I had shared with you earlier in this post.

I hope you will give these wreaths a try!  Curious mind would love to know what you think of them! :)

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Thanks for stopping by.  I hope you have a lovely week!

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Click here, here, and here to read my other Thread Talk posts on quilting feather wreaths.